Sao Joao is Saint John the Baptist. Fiestas Juninas are June festivals.
In Brazil, the second largest catholic country in the world after Mexico, in the month of June, are held wide celebrations for three important saints: Saint Anthony, Saint Peter and Saint John. Though the different celebrations are regional, Bahia takes a significant part in the celebration of the Saint John's birthday. Saint John is the prophet who announced the coming of Christ, and eventually baptized him in the Jordan River.
Bahia makes everything into a party, Sao Joao's Junina is no exception. It is a party that lasts several days and peaks on June 24, on the prophet' s birthday, in Pelourinho, the cultural and historical center of Salvador. This is not a party to miss.
June 24 was our second day in Salvador. By 9:00 AM, we were already en route for our city tour.
We drove through different areas of Salvador, the City of Happiness. The guides made a highlight of Barra a neighborhood of millionaires where lives Ivete Sangalo, the diva of Bahia. We learned about Pituba, Itaigara, Ondina, Rio Vermelho, Amacao, Corsario, Itapua... We drove by too many churches, administrative centers, museums (most closed), tourist areas, and learning centers.
The tour could not stop at the Digue dos Torrero Park where stand the statues of seven Orisha gods. We were looking forward to taking memorable pictures. Close to the stadium, an area of heightened security during the World Cup, parking and additional crowding were not desired. Next time, we will not miss that important stop...
Mercado Modelo was closed. Sao Joao is a holiday.
We ended up at Cidade Alta (Upper Town), right in Pelourinho. Yes, it seems like everything in Salvador ends in Pelourinho, not unlike everything in Paris ends at the Champs Elysees.
Pelourinho is Little Pillory. It derives its name historically from the whipping post set in the central plaza, where slaves used to pay the price of their indiscipline or simply of their uppity. Nowadays, no one seems to remember.
On that morning of Sao Joao Day, Pelourinho was already partying hard. Small bands and performers occupied every street corner. In its numerous restaurants, waitresses wore the typical ethnic outfit of Bahia. Life was bustling with joy, laughter and rhythm.
On the pavement of the cobblestone streets between pastel-painted houses dating back to the 17th century, we danced to the root music of the street performers, but they were not Olodum. We visited the Basilica Cathedral and had wish ribbons (fitas) tied on our wrists. By Mario Cravo's cross, we admired the beauty of the sprawling Lower Town.
With lunch, we watched the game between Italy and Uruguay, two former World Champions, two blue squads, La Squaddra Azzura fending off La Celeste for a spot in the knockout stage. Godin scored. Uruguay won 1-0 and advanced. But the match folklore will not be the excellent performance of the actors, or the lack of it. It will be Luis Suarez sticking his teeth in the right shoulder of Giorgio Chiellini. Suarez, vampire-at heart, was expelled, likely for the rest of the Cup. Without him, Uruguay will go nowhere.
Later, in the evening, we came back to Pelourinho. The small bands had yielded the scene to the big ones. Jose Flavio, a forro king, assembled thousands on the large plaza. He was not the only performers... There were too many of them.
I ate dinner from a plate bought from the stall of a street vendor. Hmm! It tasted delicious, it costed me $3. It was made of chicken, rice, flower, tomatoes, sauce, and other ingredients. I washed it down with a can of guarana. You need to have a can of guarana, believe me....
It was a full day of fun and fest. At near midnight, after a group picture, we boarded the bus to return to the hotel. Some remained behind to wish goodbye to the sole Festa Junina they may ever attend. It was a moment of pure delectation...
We are due in the stadium for in a few hours; it will be a rainy day...
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Did you miss our World Cup Trip?
Would you like to go to Cartagena, Colombia?
(TheTraveller, Tuesday, June 24, 2014)
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